Travel Guide: Dublin

Dublin is a lively and busy city that I am only just getting to know. Therefore, I have found you someone eminently better qualified to compile a fantastic guide to Dublin restaurants, Dublin pubs and bars and Dublin entertainment. Over to her:


Going Out: Eating & Drinking

Restaurants   Cafés   Pubs   Music / Comedy clubs

I am a native Dubliner, and I love the city. Yes, the late 1990s' economic boom brought with it traffic squalor, smug self-awareness and slick reinvention, but it also brought ethnic variety, self-confidence and, above all, a sense of vibrancy. Dublin remains cosy, compact and friendly and accessible to newcomer and old hand alike.

This is a very personal selection of places I feel at home in. If you like comfy, unpretentious venues with a bit of character and warmth to them, you should find something to your liking here. Try out some of these recommendations to lower your chances of meeting nothing but drunken tourists lured by cheap Ryanair flights - and up your chances of meeting drunken Dubliners in search of a laid-back good time.

Eating
Economic prosperity has brought variety to Dublin's eateries, and there are plenty to choose from, though prices and service may leave much to be desired. These picks largely ignore cultural quarter Temple Bar, where restaurants change quite a bit and you should simply follow your instincts to find a place that suits you. See Time Out, e-street (with WAP) and Softguide. For gay or lesbian visitors, check out Travel Insights' Gay Dublin guide.

Dublin Restaurant Guide

Restaurants (Dublin area phone code: 01)
101 Talbot101 Talbot Street
T: 874 5011
Open only in the evenings, the 101 Talbot is particularly loved for its excellent vegetarian dishes
Aya49 Clarendon Street
T: 677 1544
www.aya.ie
Delicious Japanese food, including conveyor-belt sushi
Bad Ass9-11 Crown Alley
T: 671 2596
Unpretentious pizza, burger and beer joint that seems to have been in Temple Bar for ever
Cornucopia19 Wicklow Street
T: 677 7583
A laid-back but always busy vegetarian haven
Diep le Shaker55 Pembroke Lane
T: 661 1829
www.diep.net
Delicious Thai (and some Chinese) food in beautiful surroundings with great service. Expensive
Fitzer's50 Dawson Street
T: 677 1155
and others
Each restaurant in this chain serving excellent modern food has its own style
Irish Film Centre6 Eustace Street
T: 677 8788/679 3477
www.fii.ie
Decent food served in the bar until 9.30pm in airy, surroundings. Shop or take in a film while you're there
Jacob's Ladder4-5 Nassau Street
T: 670 3865
www.jacobsladder.ie
Very inventive food in relatively formal surroundings
Juice73 Sth Great George's St
T: 475 7856
Juice is a groovy, gay-friendly, vegetarian restaurant with great veggie burgers
Little Caesar's Pizza5 Balfe Street
T: 671 8714
Great pizza tucked away behind Grafton Street
Mao2-3 Chatham Street
T: 670 4899
Asian fusion cuisine in a buzzing atmosphere
Milano38 Dawson Street
T: 670 7744
19 East Essex Street
T: 670 3384
Reliable pasta and pizza joint (same as UK's Pizza Express)
Odessa Lounge and Grill13-14 Dame Court
T: 670 7634
Great for lounging and eating during the day or at the weekend. And there's palm reading on Tuesdays
Pad Thai30 Sth Richmond Street
T: 475 5551
Reasonably priced Thai food in a funky, friendly spot in Portobello
Sinners12 Parliament Street
T: 671 9345
Tasty Lebanese cuisine with added belly dancing at the weekends
WagamamaStephen's Green Centre, South King Street
T: 478 2152
www.wagamama.com
The familiar, friendly Wagamama formula of noodles, fruit juices and bench-seating
The WestburyGrafton Street
T: 679 1122
www.jurys.com
The Terrace Lounge in this very upmarket hotel off Grafton Street is great for afternoon tea
Yamamori Noodles71 Sth Great George's St
T: 475 5001
Trendy and always buzzing, with yummy noodles and sushi
Dublin Café Guide
Avoca CaféSuffolk Street
T: 672 6019
www.avoca.ie
The long-awaited Dublin branch of the Wicklow café serves simple yet expertly cooked Mediterranean-style dishes
Barge Café CompanyBaggot Street Bridge
T: 088 265 4658
www.thebargecafe.dna.ie
Have breakfast or lunch on a barge on the Grand Canal
Bewley's78-79 Grafton Street
T: 635 5470
and many others
The Grafton Street branch carried out extensive refurbishements, but the other city-centre outlets retain their charm. Full Irish breakfasts and sticky buns
Billboard Café43 Camden Street Lr.
T: 475 5047
This down-to-earth café serves breakfast all day - and all night at the weekend
Leo Burdock's2 Werburgh Street
T: 454 0306
Dublin's oldest fish and chipper, beside Christ Church Cathedral
Nude21 Suffolk Street
T: 677 4804
www.nude.ie
This branch of the panini-and-smoothie outfit offers a fine view of bustling Grafton Street
Simon's PlaceGeorge's Street Arcade
T: 679 7821
A great, bustling soup and sandwiches lunchtime spot
Steps of Rome1 Chatham Court
T: 670 5630
Tiny pizza and wine place off Grafton Street with yummy pizza slices to take away
Winding Stair40 Ormond Quay Lr.
T: 873 3292
This charming bookshop is a great place for lunch
Food markets
Epicurean Food HallMiddle Abbey StreetIndoor food market and café centre selling food from all over the world
Temple BarMeeting House Square, Sat 10am-5pm
www.temple-bar.ie
Outdoor market selling quality Irish gourmet food
Drinking
To state the obvious, you won't be stuck for a good pub in Dublin. Frothy, foreign caffeine drinks may have arrived, and restrictive licensing laws may be causing some misguided publicans to turn once-cosy bars into soulless superpubs to up their profits, but there is still such a thing as the authentic and unpretentious Dublin pub. Believe it or not, Temple Bar has a few, though many Dubliners wouldn't be seen dead there, put off by vomiting stag weekenders and sheer overcrowding. Having said that, you'll be lucky to get a seat in any pub on a Saturday night. Once in a pub, don't assume there will be food on offer - and don't even think of asking the barman for a cup of coffee on a bustling Friday or Saturday. He might well make one just to throw at you.

And of course, you can also use your drinking time productively by taking in a concert or comedy gig at the same time. Dublin has a healthy music scene and plenty to offer those who prefer more intimate venues to the major arenas. And as Irish comedians prove they are more than flavour of the month on the British and American circuits, homegrown comedy is undergoing a resurgence. Hot Press and In Dublin magazines are great sources of information and gossip. Or consult the freebie paper Event Guide and Time Out for dates.

VenueDetailsComment
Dublin Pub Guide (phone code: 01)
Bowe's Lounge31 Fleet Street
T: 671 4038
A pleasant, cosy and unpretentious pub with lots of character
Dawson Lounge25 Dawson Street
T: 677 5909
Slightly eccentric pub at the top of a narrow stairs. Bills itself as the smallest bar in Dublin
Front Lounge33-34 Parliament Street
T: 670 4112
Designer pub with sofas for lounging and watching the beautiful people. "Back Lounge" section more gay-centric
The George89 Sth Great George's St
T: 873 3292
Dublin's gay institution becomes more mixed on Sunday afternoons as the mainstream crowd piles in for bingo and transvestite fun
The Globe11 Sth Great George's St
T: 671 1220
Posh café-bar. Jazz on Sunday afternoons. Turns into Rí-Rá club at night
Hogan's35 Sth Great George's St
T: 677 5904
George's Street's other posh café-bar. Good people-watching
Keatings10 Jervis Street
T: 872 4031
Three floors of well-designed pub with open fires. Near Jervis Street shopping centre
Kehoe's9 South Anne Street
T: 677 8312
Like drinking in someone's front room - indeed, upstairs used to be the late proprietor's living room. Timeless and small with snugs
The Library Bar1-5 Exchequer Street
www.centralhotel.ie
Sofas and open fires in this hotel bar
LifeIrish Life Centre, Abbey St Lr.
T: 878 1032
Groovy music and décor make this slightly off-the-trail pub good for lounging in
Long Hall51 Sth Great George's St
T: 475 1590
Beautiful old interior. One of the few long hall pubs left in Dublin
Mulligan's8 Poolbeg Street
T: 677 5582
Famed for its fine Guinness. Regulars mix with students and journalists in this Dublin institution
Neary's1 Chatham Street
T: 677 8596
Full of shabby character. Gets crowded
Odeon57 Harcourt Street
T: 478 2088
Sofas and good food make this converted railway station a comfy place by day. By night, quite crowded and, dare we say it, slightly pretentious
The Palace21 Fleet Street
T: 677 9290
A gorgeous old bar that attracts an eclectic crowd
Peter's Pub1 Johnson's Place
T: 677 8588
A gem of a pub. Small, friendly and unchanging
Porterhouse16-18 Parliament Street
T: 679 8847
www.tasteofireland.com
An attractive microbrewery-pub serving excellent beer, including Oyster stout. Draws in the tourists
Ryan's of Parkgate Street28 Parkgate Street
T: 677 6097
A wonderful Victorian bar worth the slight trek. Food upstairs
Searson's42 Upper Baggot St
T: 660 0330
Good lunches for the Baggot Street worker bees. Pleasant place to linger over a pint during the day
Stag's Head1 Dame Court
T: 679 3701
A beautiful old oaky pub serving very fine pub grub. Much-loved by Trinity College students
Thing Mote15 Suffolk Street
T: 677 8030
Get there in the afternoon to grab a window seat and watch Dublin go by. Decent food by day and great (but blasting) music at night
Thomas Read/The Oak1 Parliament Street
T: 670 7220
Thomas Read, a high-ceilinged café-bar, is connected to The Oak, a simpler, more laid-back pub
Entertainment: Music & Comedy
VenueDetailsComment
Dublin Music Guide (phone code: 01)
Gaiety TheatreSouth King Street
T: 677 1717
www.gaietytheatre.net
Friday is Mambo night (salsa and Latin), Saturday hosts Velure (jazz and soul)
HQ57 Abbey Street Middle
T: 878 3345
Part of the Irish Music Hall of Fame, this is one of Dublin's newest venues, modern and intimate
Olympia Theatre72 Dame Street
T: 677 7744
This old theatre hosts midnight concerts
Sugar Club8 Lower Lesson Street
T: 678 7188
Music, movies and a friendly vibe
Temple Bar Music CentreCurved Street, Temple Bar
T: 670 9202
www.tbmc.ie
Interesting music and a nice big bar
Vicar Street99 Vicar Street
T: 454 6656/bookings 609 7788
www.vicarstreet.com
A lovely intimate space hosts eclectic music and comedy and a fine bar outside
Whelan's25 Wexford Street
T: 478 0766
www.whelanslive.com
A great old pub with a venerable old music venue attached
Comedy
Norseman27-29 East Essex Street
T: 671 5135/679 8372
Comedy upstairs on Thursday nights is generally reliable
International Bar23 Wicklow Street
T:677 9250
Hosts comedy on Mon., Wed., and Thurs. nights and has a venerable comedy history
Ha'penny Bridge42 Wellington Quay
T:677 0616
Open-mike on Tuesdays and improv. on Thursdays
Murphy's Laughter Lounge4-6 Eden Quay, D1 Eden Quay
T: 878 3003
www.laughterlounge.com
Big-name comedy in a converted cinema

Getting Around

A thriving economy has brought gridlock to Dublin and exposed the inadequacies of the public transport system. There is no subway and buses simply get swallowed by the appalling traffic. Luckily, getting around this compact city is generally just a matter of walking (or taking a rickshaw).

Getting out of the city, buses, the staple of Dublin transport, are exact-fare only, with change tiresomely given in the form of receipts to be redeemed at Dublin Bus headquarters; day tickets will save you hassle. Taxi-rank queues curl around the city on weekend nights - expect to wait for a long, long time. Calling a cab is an alternative, but even these can be hard to find at busy times.

  • The CIE Group site brings together city bus and regional rail and bus information, including:
  • Aircoach is a private coach company linking major hotels with Dublin airport.
  • The DART light-rail system snakes down the coastal areas north and south of the city.
  • Nitelink buses service most suburbs late into Thursday-Saturday nights.

Miscellaneous

A visit to the Tourist Centre or even the most cursory search on the web will show you there's plenty to keep you occupied in Dublin. Try to reserve one night for the theatre. Those with a bit more time or seeking something slightly different might consider some of the following:
  • Dublin's museums and galleries are well-documented and generally easy to find. Lesser known attractions among the more obvious sights include:
    • The Casino at Marino has nothing to do with gambling. This ingenious neoclassical building located three miles north of the city centre is very much worth the visit, and the tour is included in the entry fee.
    • The Irish Museum of Modern Art in Kilmainham holds some great exhibitions in very imposing surroundings.
    • The Irish Jewish Museum (restricted opening times) features artefacts and documents relating to Ireland's fading Jewish community and was opened in 1985 by the late Israeli president D. Chaim Herzog, who was born in Ireland.
    • Marsh's Library is a preserved scholar's library at St. Patrick's Cathedral, while the Chester Beatty Library houses fine collections of East Asian, Islamic and Western art.
  • Literature and alcohol are firm friends in Dublin. The literary pub crawl uses Dublin's literary figures as an excuse to introduce you to some handsome Dublin pubs. Pay attention and win a t-shirt. Or why not try a book reading? The entrance fee to these friendly little events generally covers a glass or two of wine. Ask at Waterstone's or Hodges Figgis bookshops, both on Dawson Street.
  • If driving around graveyards at night in a red-velvet-curtained bus is your thing, Dublin Bus's Ghost Bus Tour is for you. The city and coastal bus tours are also to be recommended.
  • March 17th is St. Patrick's day, and the feast day of Ireland's patron saint has metamorphosed from a rainy, lacklustre, provincial affair to an impressive four-day festival. Less well-known, Bloomsday, on June 16th, is an annual re-enactment by fans of Joyce's Ulysses of the events of Leopold Bloom's day; expect to see grown-ups in Victorian costumes eating gorgonzola and buying lemon soap.
  • Smithfield, Dublin's new "up-and-coming" quarter, is still rough around the edges but worth a visit for its interesting architecture. Attractions include the Old Jameson Distillery, and The Chimney, which gives you great views of the city. The Smithfield market is the genuine article and even sells horses.
  • Take in a Gaelic football or hurling game at Croke Park. Fixtures and game rules can be had from the Gaelic Athletic Association. The less noble sport of greyhound racing is just as much fun at Shelbourne Park.




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