Dublin is a lively and busy city that I am only just getting to know. Therefore, I have found you someone eminently better qualified to compile a fantastic guide to Dublin restaurants, Dublin pubs and bars and Dublin entertainment. Over to her:
I am a native Dubliner, and I love the city. Yes, the late 1990s' economic boom
brought with it traffic squalor, smug self-awareness and slick reinvention, but it also brought ethnic variety, self-confidence and,
above all, a sense of vibrancy. Dublin remains cosy, compact and friendly and accessible to newcomer and old hand alike.
This is a very personal selection of places I feel at home in. If you like comfy, unpretentious venues with a bit of
character and warmth to them, you should find something to your liking here. Try out some of these recommendations to lower
your chances of meeting nothing but drunken tourists lured by cheap Ryanair flights - and up your chances of meeting drunken
Dubliners in search of a laid-back good time.
Eating
Economic prosperity has brought variety to Dublin's eateries, and there are plenty to choose from, though prices and service
may leave much to be desired. These picks largely ignore cultural quarter Temple Bar,
where restaurants change quite a bit and you should simply follow your instincts to find a place that suits you.
See Time Out,
e-street (with WAP) and Softguide. For gay or lesbian visitors, check out Travel Insights' Gay Dublin guide.
Dublin Restaurant Guide
Restaurants (Dublin area phone code: 01)
101 Talbot
101 Talbot Street T: 874 5011
Open only in the evenings, the 101 Talbot is particularly loved for its excellent vegetarian dishes
The Grafton Street branch carried out extensive refurbishements, but the other city-centre outlets retain their charm. Full Irish breakfasts and sticky buns
Billboard Café
43 Camden Street Lr. T: 475 5047
This down-to-earth café serves breakfast all day - and all night at the weekend
Leo Burdock's
2 Werburgh Street T: 454 0306
Dublin's oldest fish and chipper, beside Christ Church Cathedral
To state the obvious, you won't be stuck for a good pub in Dublin. Frothy, foreign caffeine drinks may have arrived, and
restrictive licensing laws may be causing some misguided publicans to turn once-cosy bars into soulless superpubs to up
their profits, but there is still such a thing as the authentic and unpretentious Dublin pub. Believe it or not, Temple
Bar has a few, though many Dubliners wouldn't be seen dead there, put off by vomiting stag weekenders and sheer overcrowding.
Having said that, you'll be lucky to get a seat in any pub on a Saturday night. Once in a pub, don't assume there will be
food on offer - and don't even think of asking the barman for a cup of coffee on a bustling Friday or Saturday. He might
well make one just to throw at you.
And of course, you can also use your drinking time productively by taking in a concert or comedy gig at the same time.
Dublin has a healthy music scene and plenty to offer those who prefer more intimate venues to the major arenas.
And as Irish comedians prove they are more than flavour of the month
on the British and American circuits, homegrown comedy is undergoing a resurgence. Hot Press and
In Dublin magazines are great sources of information and gossip. Or consult the freebie paper
Event Guide and Time Out for dates.
Venue
Details
Comment
Dublin Pub Guide (phone code: 01)
Bowe's Lounge
31 Fleet Street T: 671 4038
A pleasant, cosy and unpretentious pub with lots of character
Dawson Lounge
25 Dawson Street T: 677 5909
Slightly eccentric pub at the top of a narrow stairs. Bills itself as the smallest bar in Dublin
Front Lounge
33-34 Parliament Street T: 670 4112
Designer pub with sofas for lounging and watching the beautiful people. "Back Lounge" section more gay-centric
The George
89 Sth Great George's St T: 873 3292
Dublin's gay institution becomes more mixed on Sunday afternoons as the mainstream crowd piles in for bingo and transvestite fun
The Globe
11 Sth Great George's St T: 671 1220
Posh café-bar. Jazz on Sunday afternoons. Turns into Rí-Rá club at night
Hogan's
35 Sth Great George's St T: 677 5904
George's Street's other posh café-bar. Good people-watching
Keatings
10 Jervis Street T: 872 4031
Three floors of well-designed pub with open fires. Near Jervis Street shopping centre
Kehoe's
9 South Anne Street T: 677 8312
Like drinking in someone's front room - indeed, upstairs used to be the late proprietor's living room. Timeless and small with snugs
A thriving economy has brought gridlock to Dublin and exposed the inadequacies of the public transport system. There is no
subway and buses simply get swallowed by the appalling traffic. Luckily, getting around this compact city is
generally just a matter of walking (or taking a rickshaw).
Getting out of the city, buses, the staple of Dublin transport, are exact-fare only, with change tiresomely given in the
form of receipts to be redeemed at Dublin Bus headquarters;
day tickets will save you hassle. Taxi-rank queues curl around the city on weekend nights - expect to wait for a long, long time.
Calling a cab is an alternative, but even these can be hard to
find at busy times.
The CIE Group site brings together city bus and regional rail and bus information, including:
Aircoach is a private coach company linking major hotels with Dublin airport.
The DART light-rail system snakes down the coastal areas north and south of the city.
Nitelink buses service most suburbs late into Thursday-Saturday nights.
Miscellaneous
A visit to the Tourist Centre or even the most cursory search on the web will show you there's plenty to keep you occupied in Dublin. Try to reserve one night for the theatre. Those with a bit more time or seeking something slightly different might consider some of the following:
Dublin's museums and galleries are well-documented and generally easy to find. Lesser known attractions among the more obvious sights include:
The Casino at Marino has nothing to do with gambling. This ingenious neoclassical building located three miles north of the city centre is very much worth the visit, and the tour is included in the entry fee.
The Irish Jewish Museum (restricted opening times) features artefacts and documents relating to Ireland's fading Jewish community and was opened in 1985 by the late Israeli president D. Chaim Herzog, who was born in Ireland.
Marsh's Library is a preserved scholar's library at St. Patrick's Cathedral, while the Chester Beatty Library houses fine collections of East Asian, Islamic and Western art.
Literature and alcohol are firm friends in Dublin. The literary pub crawl uses Dublin's literary figures as an excuse to introduce you to some handsome Dublin pubs. Pay attention and win a t-shirt. Or why not try a book reading? The entrance fee to these friendly little events generally covers a glass or two of wine. Ask at Waterstone's or Hodges Figgis bookshops, both on Dawson Street.
If driving around graveyards at night in a red-velvet-curtained bus is your thing, Dublin Bus's Ghost Bus Tour is for you. The city and coastal bus tours are also to be recommended.
March 17th is St. Patrick's day, and the feast day of Ireland's patron saint has metamorphosed from a rainy, lacklustre, provincial affair to an impressive four-day festival. Less well-known, Bloomsday, on June 16th, is an annual re-enactment by fans of Joyce's Ulysses of the events of Leopold Bloom's day; expect to see grown-ups in Victorian costumes eating gorgonzola and buying lemon soap.
Smithfield, Dublin's new "up-and-coming" quarter, is still rough around the edges but worth a visit for its interesting architecture. Attractions include the Old Jameson Distillery, and The Chimney, which gives you great views of the city. The Smithfield market is the genuine article and even sells horses.
Take in a Gaelic football or hurling game at Croke Park. Fixtures and game rules can be had from the Gaelic Athletic Association. The less noble sport of greyhound racing is just as much fun at Shelbourne Park.
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