Travel Guide: Düsseldorf

Accommodation

Düsseldorf, one of Germany's richest cities, is headquarters to many large companies, and has a substantial Japanese population. There are plenty of hotels - many catering to the business and trade fair crowd. This Düsseldorf guide contains a very small selection of those I have experience of. For a full list, try FuntastikTravel.com's comprehensive site, or the city's own directory.

Düsseldorf Hotels
Astron HotelBusiness hotel on southern edge of city center. Good weekend rates
Hotel ÜbachsCentral, quiet location. Good value 3*
Hotel NikkoJapanese 5* hotel with minimal character, but an excellent Japanese restaurant
Radisson SASLuxury hotel on edge of city centre. One of the best hotel restaurants in Germany

Eating & Drinking

Düsseldorf is a good place to eat out, with a wide range of food catering to most tastes and all budgets. Many visitors never leave the Altstadt, which is a shame. Having lived there for quite a while, I hope that I can lure you away to some other easily accessible treats. The list is split into Bar/Restaurants and Restaurants. Aside from clubs and small bars, almost all bars serve food as well. The menus at many are very standard fare, although the food is usually good quality. Some of Düsseldorf's most fashionable restaurants are also bars, so don't ignore them if you are looking for somewhere nice. What I have categorized as "restaurants" only allow eating. The Food Court section is to bail you out with a cheap lunch if you are in town shopping (or on a budget).

Düsseldorf has the highest concentration of Japanese restaurants in Europe and they are all supposed to be very good although I have only tried a couple. If you like Japanese food then head for Immermanstrasse or Klosterstrasse, and stock your wallet beforehand.

For a useful list of restaurants and bars, try Yahoo! Deutschland's Düsseldorf guide site (yes, it is in German).

Bar/Restaurants (Düsseldorf area phone code: 0211)    bold = recommended
BalthasarHunsrückenstrasse 29
T: 32 27 70
Popular, lively, standard menu (upstairs is eating only). A young locals' place in the Altstadt
BeethovenAckerstrasse 106
T: 6 79 09 73
In Flingern, handy for the offbeat Theatre Flin crowd, also attracts students with a decently priced menu
Bossa NovaNeusser Str. 121
T: 9 17 93 32
Brazilian cocktail bar with live music every night, interesting menu and fresh-fruit cocktails. Best value cocktails in town
Brauerei SchumacherOststrasse 123
T: 32 60 04
www.schumacheralt.de
Famous local brewery. Altbier (the local tipple) brewed on the premises. Has become pretentiously "German"
Buck MulligansBolker Str. 23
T: 3 23 80 52
Roomy Irish bar, live music of varying quality. Closed Mon-Wed. Very quiet early evening
Café BernsteinOststrasse 158
T: 35 65 20
Friendly, good Italianish menu, but great for a drink too. Breakfasts also excellent
Café LiebevollBelsenplatz 1
T: 58 85 53
www.cafe-liebevoll.de
In Oberkassel (with a small offshoot on Ratinger Str.), this is a busy bar restaurant, with an extensive menu
CitrusGrünstrasse 5
T: 3 23 93 24
Cocktail bar with Californian menu. Service is usually appallingly slow. Lively late with some of the beautiful people
DeckGraf-Adolf-Str. 83Near the main station, decent pizza-oriented menu. Chilled out atmosphere (plus backgammon!)
G@rdenRathausufer 8
T: 86 61 60
www.garden.de
Bar and Internet café on the Rhine promenade. Everyone sits outside, inside is a club that never seems to get going
Goldener RingBurgplatz 21-22
T: 13 31 61
Good traditional German food. Touristy, but locals come here too. If you want a taste of German food at decent prices, this is as good as anywhere
Goldenes EinhornRatinger Str. 18
T: 13 12 83
Everywhere on Ratinger Str. is lively in the evening, this place is also good for coffee and cake in the afternoon
Güzel VoyageKonkordiastrasse 85
T: 3 98 28 55
Excellent Turkish food in this small bar/restaurant. Limited menu but superb food, friendly service and great atmosphere. Only problem: getting a table
Il MercatoFriedrichstrasse 59a
T: 9 94 56 16
Busy Italian restaurant at lunchtime, house special served very quickly. Quiet place for a drink in the evenings
MalkastenJacobistrasse 6
T: 17 30 40
www.malkasten.net
Read all about it here
MarcelsRathausufer 10
T: 3 23 80 28
French style bar/bistro on the Rhine. A little more expensive than the others. Comfortable inside
MetropolBismarckstrasse 96
T: 16 11 21
Greek trendy bar near the station. Big screen for football. Serves light food, and nuts with beer! Don't confuse with cinema of same name
MinolWupperstrasse 3
T: 3 03 56 41
www.minolbar.de
Tiny in winter, outside seating in summer. Curry is the specialty here, and it's very good
ModiglianiWissmannstrasse 6
T: 3 98 34 84
Walls littered with posters, jazz in the smoky cellar every Monday night, hard to get a table. Food reputedly good
Ohme JuppNeubrüstrasse 1
T: 32 64 06
Part of the Ratinger Str. collection. Squeeze in at weekends with the fashionable locals. Food sounds more interesting than it is, but it's still decent
Op de EckGrabbeplatz 5
T: 32 88 38
www.op-de-eck.de
Read all about it here
Pian PolvereGrünstrasse 15
T: 86 22 88 80
Italian restaurant on one side - popular for business lunches - bar on the other. Fairly mellow in the evenings
Schiff Ahoi!Sonderburgstr. 27
T: 55 50 64
Fashionable Oberkassel hang out where glaring glamour and dressed down drinkers mingle happily
Soja LoungeBilker Str. 3
T: 32 41 05
Friendly, low-key place with interesting menu. Eat upstairs in the bar, or down in the large restaurant
Sutton's Irish PubHunsrückenstrasse 5
T: 13 39 51
My choice for football night! Avoids the Oirish syndrome in favour of being warm and friendly
TangenteKronprinzenstrasse 52
T: 37 69 79
Out of the way (but opposite a 725 bus stop), good food in modest setting
ZickeBäckerstrasse 5a
T: 32 40 56
Cosy poster-clad café/bar with great food, including sushi, and a good atmosphere
Zwölf ApostelBilker Allee 87
T: 34 26 89
www.zwoelfapostel.de
Classic German food and the restaurant gets packed with locals. Friendly, local bar
Food courts / Misc.
Schadowarkade on SchadowstrasseDownstairs for everything from Lebanese food, top-quality sushi, Asian food and coffee and cake
Sevens on Königsallee/SteinstrasseAlso downstairs for: bagels, Lebanese, Italian, soup, currywurst, sushi, fish and champagne bars. Gets the work crowd at lunchtime
Deutsche Bank on KönigsalleeBelieve it or not, the best coffee and cake on the Kö is right here
Restaurants (Düsseldorf area phone code: 0211)    bold = recommended
a TavolaWallstrasse 11
T: 13 29 23
Friendly Italian restaurant in an Altstadt back street. A little more expensive but worth it. Good wine list
BenkayImmermanstrasse 41
T: 8 34 26 20
Top price Japanese restaurant in the Hotel Nikko
DaladanFriedrichstrasse 132
T: 31 82 29
Large Turkish restaurant with excellent menu at reasonable prices. Beware the live belly dancing on Fri/Sat!
La TerrazzaKönigsallee 30
T: 32 75 40
Pricy Italian restaurant frequented by the cream of Düsseldorf and their small yappy dogs. Food and service excellent
La PastaKirchfeldstrasse 120
T: 3 88 58 78
Lively, focuses on pasta and fish. Good value, and am in danger of being called a regular
RosengartenKarlstrasse 76
T: 35 47 71
Popular Chinese restaurant near the station. Efficient service and decent food
TandooriImmermanstrasse 32
T: 32 34 50
Top quality Indian food, priced as such. Reservations useful

Getting Around

A network of buses and trams whizzes you around the city, and the local train network will get you that little bit further. If you are visiting then invest in either a day pass (Tagesticket), which is valid for up to five people (and a dog!), or at least get a 4xA-zone ticket, which works out much better value. Buying tickets in advance also alleviates a lot of on-tram hassle, but check whether you need to validate the ticket on boarding. If you can't find a suitable tram, taxis are ludicrously abundant, and not too expensive - especially for groups.
  • The Rheinbahn website is your first port of call. There's an online timetable on the right. Hint: cut and paste "Düsseldorf" into the Stadt box. This site also has the network map in PDF format.
  • The regional Rhein-Ruhr transport site overlaps with the Rheinbahn (don't ask me to explain the differences). Basically, use this one if you are travelling outside Düsseldorf, but within the region.
  • Deutsche Bahn's legendary online timetable will also solve pretty much any transport problem - even local.
  • If you need a taxi, call 3 33 33, or use this site for a full list of taxi rank numbers.
  • Fancy a trip on the Rhine? Well, in season check out the K-D site, with full sailing schedules - although you are better off heading much further south for true Rhineland castle spotting.
  • If K-D doesn't suit, have a look at Weisse Flotte Düsseldorf's timetable for a quick run up to Kaiserswerth.

Miscellaneous

Düsseldorf is a good place for a weekend break. The city's tourist pages(in German) have been revamped, but finally there is a reasonable English version. In the meantime, here are some web-enabled suggestions:
  • The famous Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkt) take place every December. Read the Travel Insights article.
  • The Rheinturm is a major landmark and, from the top, you can just see Cologne cathedral on a clear day. The tower is also (allegedly) the world's largest digital clock. Get a local to explain it to you!
  • Düsseldorf is garnering a reputation for its modern architecture. Near the Rheinturm are the Neue Zollhof buildings, designed by world-famous architect Frank O. Gehry. Also in this area are the impressive Stadttor office block and the new regional parliament building.
  • Benrath is a popular destination on a nice day, with the Schloss Benrath grounds leading down to the Rhine. Get there on an S6 train from the main station towards Cologne.
  • On a rainy day, the Aquazoo is a very popular place to be. Too popular at times, with a lot of kids running around.
  • Why not try the cinema? Düsseldorf has many good cinemas showing Hollywood's latest and the art house circuit. For English films trek out on the U74 or U76 lines to the Oberkassel UFA cinema at Löricker Strasse, where two or three original versions screen. For times, go to Biograph's listings and click on Alle Originalversionen.
  • Oh, you want that sort of culture? You are in luck, Düsseldorf has a selection of good small museums and galleries, and one great one. Here's my shortlist:
    • Düsseldorf Kunsthalle - Modern art - often regional artists. More challenging exhibitions that won't be to everyone's taste.
    • Film Museum - Includes Black Box cinema.
    • museum kunst palast - Tucked out of the way, this is a revitalized eclectic collection. The Recycle Bar is a good place to sit and unwind with a coffee (access to this café is free).
    • NRW Forum - With the snazziest website of them all, the NRW Forum sets out its stall as displayer of the avant-garde. Photography exhibitions are common, with Anton Corbijn's recent collection attracting even REM's Michael Stipe.
    • NRW Kunstsammlung - Excellent permanent collection, including Klee & Kandinsky, plus large exhibitions. If you are an art fan, this is a must-see gallery.
    • Stadtmusuem - More interesting if you can read some German, but there are exhibits of interest for all in the city museum. Personally I like the old maps and models of pre-war Düsseldorf, and the exhibition about the war years themselves is well done.




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