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Travel Guide: Dublin
Dublin is a lively and busy city that I am only just getting to know. Therefore, I have found you someone eminently better qualified to compile a fantastic guide to Dublin restaurants, Dublin pubs and bars and Dublin entertainment. Over to her:
Going Out: Eating & Drinking
Restaurants Cafés Pubs Music / Comedy clubs
I am a native Dubliner, and I love the city. Yes, the late 1990s' economic boom
brought with it traffic squalor, smug self-awareness and slick reinvention, but it also brought ethnic variety, self-confidence and,
above all, a sense of vibrancy. Dublin remains cosy, compact and friendly and accessible to newcomer and old hand alike.
This is a very personal selection of places I feel at home in. If you like comfy, unpretentious venues with a bit of
character and warmth to them, you should find something to your liking here. Try out some of these recommendations to lower
your chances of meeting nothing but drunken tourists lured by cheap Ryanair flights - and up your chances of meeting drunken
Dubliners in search of a laid-back good time.
Eating
Economic prosperity has brought variety to Dublin's eateries, and there are plenty to choose from, though prices and service
may leave much to be desired. These picks largely ignore cultural quarter Temple Bar,
where restaurants change quite a bit and you should simply follow your instincts to find a place that suits you.
See Time Out, the Irish Times guide to Dublin,
e-street (with WAP) and Softguide. For gay or lesbian visitors, check out Travel Insights' Gay Dublin guide.
Dublin Restaurant Guide
| Restaurants (Dublin area phone code: 01) |
| 101 Talbot | 101 Talbot Street T: 874 5011 | Open only in the evenings, the 101 Talbot is particularly loved for its excellent vegetarian dishes |
| Aya | 49 Clarendon Street T: 677 1544 www.aya.ie | Delicious Japanese food, including conveyor-belt sushi |
| Bad Ass | 9-11 Crown Alley T: 671 2596 | Unpretentious pizza, burger and beer joint that seems to have been in Temple Bar for ever |
| Cornucopia | 19 Wicklow Street T: 677 7583 | A laid-back but always busy vegetarian haven |
| Diep le Shaker | 55 Pembroke Lane T: 661 1829 www.diep.net | Delicious Thai (and some Chinese) food in beautiful surroundings with great service. Expensive |
| Fitzer's | 50 Dawson Street T: 677 1155 and others | Each restaurant in this chain serving excellent modern food has its own style |
| Irish Film Centre | 6 Eustace Street T: 677 8788/679 3477 www.fii.ie | Decent food served in the bar until 9.30pm in airy, surroundings. Shop or take in a film while you're there |
| Jacob's Ladder | 4-5 Nassau Street T: 670 3865 www.jacobsladder.ie | Very inventive food in relatively formal surroundings |
| Juice | 73 Sth Great George's St T: 475 7856 | Juice is a groovy, gay-friendly, vegetarian restaurant with great veggie burgers |
| Little Caesar's Pizza | 5 Balfe Street T: 671 8714 | Great pizza tucked away behind Grafton Street |
| Mao | 2-3 Chatham Street T: 670 4899 | Asian fusion cuisine in a buzzing atmosphere |
| Milano | 38 Dawson Street T: 670 7744 19 East Essex Street T: 670 3384
| Reliable pasta and pizza joint (same as UK's Pizza Express) |
| Odessa Lounge and Grill | 13-14 Dame Court T: 670 7634 | Great for lounging and eating during the day or at the weekend. And there's palm reading on Tuesdays
| | Pad Thai | 30 Sth Richmond Street T: 475 5551 | Reasonably priced Thai food in a funky, friendly spot in Portobello |
| Peacock Alley | 128 St Stephen's Green T: 677 0708 irishfood.com/peacockalley | Serious food at very serious prices with impeccable service |
| Sinners | 12 Parliament Street T: 671 9345 | Tasty Lebanese cuisine with added belly dancing at the weekends |
| Wagamama | Stephen's Green Centre, South King Street T: 478 2152 www.wagamama.com | The familiar, friendly Wagamama formula of noodles, fruit juices and bench-seating |
| The Westbury | Grafton Street T: 679 1122 www.jurys.com | The Terrace Lounge in this very upmarket hotel off Grafton Street is great for afternoon tea |
| Yamamori Noodles | 71 Sth Great George's St T: 475 5001 | Trendy and always buzzing, with yummy noodles and sushi |
| Dublin Café Guide |
| Avoca Café | Suffolk Street T: 672 6019 www.avoca.ie | The long-awaited Dublin branch of the Wicklow café serves simple yet expertly cooked Mediterranean-style dishes |
| Barge Café Company | Baggot Street Bridge T: 088 265 4658 www.thebargecafe.dna.ie | Have breakfast or lunch on a barge on the Grand Canal |
| Bewley's | 78-79 Grafton Street T: 635 5470 and many others | The Grafton Street branch carried out extensive refurbishements, but the other city-centre outlets retain their charm. Full Irish breakfasts and sticky buns |
| Billboard Café | 43 Camden Street Lr. T: 475 5047 | This down-to-earth café serves breakfast all day - and all night at the weekend |
| Leo Burdock's | 2 Werburgh Street T: 454 0306 | Dublin's oldest fish and chipper, beside Christ Church Cathedral |
| Nude | 21 Suffolk Street T: 677 4804 www.nude.ie | This branch of the panini-and-smoothie outfit offers a fine view of bustling Grafton Street |
| Simon's Place | George's Street Arcade T: 679 7821 | A great, bustling soup and sandwiches lunchtime spot |
| Steps of Rome | 1 Chatham Court T: 670 5630 | Tiny pizza and wine place off Grafton Street with yummy pizza slices to take away |
| Winding Stair | 40 Ormond Quay Lr. T: 873 3292 | This charming bookshop is a great place for lunch |
| Food markets |
| Epicurean Food Hall | Middle Abbey Street | Indoor food market and café centre selling food from all over the world |
| Temple Bar | Meeting House Square, Sat 10am-5pm www.temple-bar.ie | Outdoor market selling quality Irish gourmet food |
Drinking
To state the obvious, you won't be stuck for a good pub in Dublin. Frothy, foreign caffeine drinks may have arrived, and
restrictive licensing laws may be causing some misguided publicans to turn once-cosy bars into soulless superpubs to up
their profits, but there is still such a thing as the authentic and unpretentious Dublin pub. Believe it or not, Temple
Bar has a few, though many Dubliners wouldn't be seen dead there, put off by vomiting stag weekenders and sheer overcrowding.
Having said that, you'll be lucky to get a seat in any pub on a Saturday night. Once in a pub, don't assume there will be
food on offer - and don't even think of asking the barman for a cup of coffee on a bustling Friday or Saturday. He might
well make one just to throw at you.
And of course, you can also use your drinking time productively by taking in a concert or comedy gig at the same time.
Dublin has a healthy music scene and plenty to offer those who prefer more intimate venues to the major arenas.
And as Irish comedians prove they are more than flavour of the month
on the British and American circuits, homegrown comedy is undergoing a resurgence. Hot Press and
In Dublin magazines are great sources of information and gossip. Or consult the freebie paper
Event Guide and Time Out for dates.
| Venue | Details | Comment |
| Dublin Pub Guide (phone code: 01) |
| Bowe's Lounge | 31 Fleet Street T: 671 4038 | A pleasant, cosy and unpretentious pub with lots of character |
| Dawson Lounge | 25 Dawson Street T: 677 5909 | Slightly eccentric pub at the top of a narrow stairs. Bills itself as the smallest bar in Dublin |
| Front Lounge | 33-34 Parliament Street T: 670 4112 | Designer pub with sofas for lounging and watching the beautiful people. "Back Lounge" section more gay-centric |
| The George | 89 Sth Great George's St T: 873 3292 | Dublin's gay institution becomes more mixed on Sunday afternoons as the mainstream crowd piles in for bingo and transvestite fun |
| The Globe | 11 Sth Great George's St T: 671 1220 | Posh café-bar. Jazz on Sunday afternoons. Turns into Rí-Rá club at night |
| Hogan's | 35 Sth Great George's St T: 677 5904 | George's Street's other posh café-bar. Good people-watching |
| Keatings | 10 Jervis Street T: 872 4031 | Three floors of well-designed pub with open fires. Near Jervis Street shopping centre |
| Kehoe's | 9 South Anne Street T: 677 8312 | Like drinking in someone's front room - indeed, upstairs used to be the late proprietor's living room. Timeless and small with snugs |
| The Library Bar | 1-5 Exchequer Street www.centralhotel.ie | Sofas and open fires in this hotel bar |
| Life | Irish Life Centre, Abbey St Lr. T: 878 1032 | Groovy music and décor make this slightly off-the-trail pub good for lounging in |
| Long Hall | 51 Sth Great George's St T: 475 1590 | Beautiful old interior. One of the few long hall pubs left in Dublin |
| Mulligan's | 8 Poolbeg Street T: 677 5582 | Famed for its fine Guinness. Regulars mix with students and journalists in this Dublin institution |
| Neary's | 1 Chatham Street T: 677 8596 | Full of shabby character. Gets crowded |
| Odeon | 57 Harcourt Street T: 478 2088 | Sofas and good food make this converted railway station a comfy place by day. By night, quite crowded and, dare we say it, slightly pretentious |
| The Palace | 21 Fleet Street T: 677 9290 | A gorgeous old bar that attracts an eclectic crowd |
| Peter's Pub | 1 Johnson's Place T: 677 8588 | A gem of a pub. Small, friendly and unchanging |
| Porterhouse | 16-18 Parliament Street T: 679 8847 www.tasteofireland.com | An attractive microbrewery-pub serving excellent beer, including Oyster stout. Draws in the tourists |
| Ryan's of Parkgate Street | 28 Parkgate Street T: 677 6097 www.ryanspubandrestaurant.com | A wonderful Victorian bar worth the slight trek. Food upstairs |
| Searson's | 42 Upper Baggot St T: 660 0330 | Good lunches for the Baggot Street worker bees. Pleasant place to linger over a pint during the day |
| Stag's Head | 1 Dame Court T: 679 3701 | A beautiful old oaky pub serving very fine pub grub. Much-loved by Trinity College students |
| Thing Mote | 15 Suffolk Street T: 677 8030 | Get there in the afternoon to grab a window seat and watch Dublin go by. Decent food by day and great (but blasting) music at night |
| Thomas Read/The Oak | 1 Parliament Street T: 670 7220 | Thomas Read, a high-ceilinged café-bar, is connected to The Oak, a simpler, more laid-back pub |
Entertainment: Music & Comedy
| Venue | Details | Comment |
| Dublin Music Guide (phone code: 01) |
| Gaiety Theatre | South King Street T: 677 1717 www.gaietytheatre.net | Friday is Mambo night (salsa and Latin), Saturday hosts Velure (jazz and soul) |
| HQ | 57 Abbey Street Middle T: 878 3345 www.mcd.ie | Part of the Irish Music Hall of Fame, this is one of Dublin's newest venues, modern and intimate |
| Olympia Theatre | 72 Dame Street T: 677 7744 | This old theatre hosts midnight concerts |
| Sugar Club | 8 Lower Lesson Street T: 678 7188 | Music, movies and a friendly vibe |
| Temple Bar Music Centre | Curved Street, Temple Bar T: 670 9202 www.tbmc.ie | Interesting music and a nice big bar |
| Vicar Street | 99 Vicar Street T: 454 6656/bookings 609 7788 www.vicarstreet.com | A lovely intimate space hosts eclectic music and comedy and a fine bar outside |
| Whelan's | 25 Wexford Street T: 478 0766 www.whelanslive.com | A great old pub with a venerable old music venue attached |
| Comedy |
| Norseman | 27-29 East Essex Street T: 671 5135/679 8372 | Comedy upstairs on Thursday nights is generally reliable |
| International Bar | 23 Wicklow Street T:677 9250 | Hosts comedy on Mon., Wed., and Thurs. nights and has a venerable comedy history |
| Ha'penny Bridge | 42 Wellington Quay T:677 0616 | Open-mike on Tuesdays and improv. on Thursdays |
| Murphy's Laughter Lounge | 4-6 Eden Quay, D1 Eden Quay T: 878 3003 www.laughterlounge.com | Big-name comedy in a converted cinema |
Getting Around
A thriving economy has brought gridlock to Dublin and exposed the inadequacies of the public transport system. There is no
subway and buses simply get swallowed by the appalling traffic. Luckily, getting around this compact city is
generally just a matter of walking (or taking a rickshaw).
Getting out of the city, buses, the staple of Dublin transport, are exact-fare only, with change tiresomely given in the
form of receipts to be redeemed at Dublin Bus headquarters;
day tickets will save you hassle. Taxi-rank queues curl around the city on weekend nights - expect to wait for a long, long time.
Calling a cab is an alternative, but even these can be hard to
find at busy times.
- The CIE Group site brings together city bus and regional rail and bus information, including:
- Aircoach is a private coach company linking major hotels with Dublin airport.
- The DART light-rail system snakes down the coastal areas north and south of the city.
- Nitelink buses service most suburbs late into Thursday-Saturday nights.
Miscellaneous
A visit to the Tourist Centre or even the most cursory search on the web will show you there's plenty to keep you occupied in Dublin. Try to reserve one night for the theatre. Those with a bit more time or seeking something slightly different might consider some of the following:
- Dublin's museums and galleries are well-documented and generally easy to find. Lesser known attractions among the more obvious sights include:
- The Casino at Marino has nothing to do with gambling. This ingenious neoclassical building located three miles north of the city centre is very much worth the visit, and the tour is included in the entry fee.
- The Irish Museum of Modern Art in Kilmainham holds some great exhibitions in very imposing surroundings.
- The Irish Jewish Museum (restricted opening times) features artefacts and documents relating to Ireland's fading Jewish community and was opened in 1985 by the late Israeli president D. Chaim Herzog, who was born in Ireland.
- Marsh's Library is a preserved scholar's library at St. Patrick's Cathedral, while the Chester Beatty Library houses fine collections of East Asian, Islamic and Western art.
- Literature and alcohol are firm friends in Dublin. The literary pub crawl uses Dublin's literary figures as an excuse to introduce you to some handsome Dublin pubs. Pay attention and win a t-shirt. Or why not try a book reading? The entrance fee to these friendly little events generally covers a glass or two of wine. Ask at Waterstone's or Hodges Figgis bookshops, both on Dawson Street.
- If driving around graveyards at night in a red-velvet-curtained bus is your thing, Dublin Bus's Ghost Bus Tour is for you. The city and coastal bus tours are also to be recommended.
- March 17th is St. Patrick's day, and the feast day of Ireland's patron saint has metamorphosed from a rainy, lacklustre, provincial affair to an impressive four-day festival. Less well-known, Bloomsday, on June 16th, is an annual re-enactment by fans of Joyce's Ulysses of the events of Leopold Bloom's day; expect to see grown-ups in Victorian costumes eating gorgonzola and buying lemon soap.
- Smithfield, Dublin's new "up-and-coming" quarter, is still rough around the edges but worth a visit for its interesting architecture. Attractions include the Old Jameson Distillery, and The Chimney, which gives you great views of the city. The Smithfield market is the genuine article and even sells horses.
- Take in a Gaelic football or hurling game at Croke Park. Fixtures and game rules can be had from the Gaelic Athletic Association. The less noble sport of greyhound racing is just as much fun at Shelbourne Park.
- Your granny knows it: you don't have to spend money to have a good time. BestValueIreland.com has some excellent tips for activities that won't cost you a cent - from open-air cinema to free flamenco.
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© 2002-2003 Jonathan Turton
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