Ayuthaya was the original capital of Thailand, or Siam as it was at the time. At its peak over one million people lived there, and it probably had a higher percentage of foreigners than does present day Bangkok. Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Dutch, English, French, Indians, Persians, Arabs, Vietnamese, Mon, Kmer and Lao all had settlements in and around the city. It wasn't the beach or the temples that lured them, but the rich rewards of trade in woods, spices, metals and fabrics. Ayuthaya was one of the main trading centres in south-east Asia.

After 400 years Ayuthaya's prosperity ended in 1767 when the Burmese finally broke through its heavy defences and sacked the city. All that remains today are an impressive number of World Heritage Site ruins spread over a huge area. When I first thought about the ruins I suspected that they would be made of marble, granite or basalt or something else suitably igneous (ok, marble isn't all that igneous - but you get the point). I was surprised to find that they are all made of a red brick. They looked, at least in texture, as if they belonged in 18th century industrial Britain rather than 18th century Siam; but the shapes of the structures are very different. Many tens of tall spires or cones reach above the treetops. Some, mainly in the centre of town, are well kept and in good repair; others, on the outskirts, are overgrown with spires listing to one side and walls sagging.

Despite the number of temples, Ayuthaya is not a entirely peaceful place - it is a small modern bustling town. The history that sits on the edge is just that - history. The city was all but reduced to rubble, but life adapted and carried on.

Reluctantly I returned to Bangkok this evening - gleaning hints on places to see and things to do from a well-travelled American I met on the train, and we both remarked on one of the more unusual snacks sold aboard Thai Trains, not unusual in itself, just an unusual quantity. As in India people walk up and down the train continually selling snacks, drinks and things which are hard to fit into either category. One of the goodies you can buy is a plastic bag containing six hard-boiled eggs. Once purchased the average consumer eats all six in about 10 minutes. The mind simply boggles.