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Shopaholics

March 18th, 2000
Hong Kong Island, China

HONG Kong is a shopper's paradise. Since 1997, Hong Kong has been a full part of the People's Republic of ChinaShops line every street and the streets go on forever. Shops herd together in malls and shopping centres, but there are so many of those that they cluster together into huge shopping-centre centres. Designer clothes, shoes, perfume, cosmetics, electronic gadgets, mobile phones, and every expensive luxury imaginable are all readily available. Down Nathan road, the electronic gadget shops are so full of digital this and digital that that they make Dixons look like a car boot sale. Even the less polished Night Market is more Up Market. It has the same craft stalls selling "local craft items" that I saw in both India and Thailand and the same profusion of food stalls - although the ones here seem to serve up only deep fried or boiled unidentifiable meat. I did stumble across a stall selling coconuts (to drink) - and they were as delicious as any I drank in India or Thailand.

Neon at close quarters in KowloonThe Night Market seems to sell a great deal of electronic wizardry or accessories to such. Particularly mobile phones (almost everyone has a mobile phone it appears) that are generally the size of my thumbnail. At the market you can buy things to put them in, things to attach to them, things to make them look cooler and an assortment of spare parts.

Hong Kong is very like Scotland. Not perhaps the most believable statement, I admit, but consider the parallels: both have big green hills, both have banks that print their own money, both have bagpipers (yes, surprised me too - but I saw them in the park today), and both have a place called Aberdeen. I can't compare this Aberdeen to the original as I've never been there, but Hong Kong's is on the south side of Hong Kong Island - over the hill from the rich and gleaming district of Central. And there is quite a contrast as you cross over. There are high rises here, true, but they are uniform and unostentatious - a little grimy and many have washing hanging from the windows. This is a more believable Hong Kong - one where people live rather than the all too perfect geometric environment of Central.

The high-rises seek to emphasise a feeling about Hong Kong that has slowly crept upon me - claustrophobia. There is so little land and almost all of it is built on, and then built up, and up and up so that the sky is virtually filled in. I probably wouldn't have had this feeling if I'd ventured into the New Territories to the north, but now my time has run out leaving me with a great number of things that I have not managed to do. I never managed to climb Victoria peak or ride the underground or do countless other things. But my time was far from wasted. Hong Kong is a lively and interesting city - astonishing and overpowering at times but always interesting. I haven't had time to really let it sink into me yet - but time has become a precious commodity. Tomorrow I fly to Osaka in Japan for a two-week tour with my friends James and Gaynor. Luckily for both James and me, Gaynor has planned the whole thing to perfection, so the only thing I have to worry about is the expense!

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