I had taken the gamble of not pre-booking accommodation - I had hardly had time - on the grounds that it was surely nearing the end of the season and finding a room would be easy. I found my way, just, through the old town's cobbled streets to the tourist office where my suggestion of getting a room for a week was greeted with looks ranging from pity to contempt. A brochure of all available accommodation was presented for me but before I could whisk it away, the woman kindly went through and marked off all the hotels that were full for at least one of the seven nights of my stay. So the possibilities whittled down before my eyes from 35 to 10. Of these, only six were affordable. Given this problem and the progression of sunset I didn't shop around as much as I should have and went to the relatively nearby Beaun'Hotel, which was satisfactory but not, I thought, terrific value.

Beaune is a prosperous, touristy town. The centre, the old town, is fairly small, but there are numerous hidden alleys and passages to explore. A town plan is essential. It was several days before I could find my way around unaided. The coach parties that descend on the town every day rarely venture beyond the inner core of bars, restaurants and cafes, thereby missing out on some interesting features and also providing spaces of sanctuary for locals and tourists with crowd allergies.

A walk round the ramparts which encircle the old town is a great way to start your relationship with Beaune. As you walk up and down the fortifications, you keep crossing the crowded streets but thanks to the high thick stone walls you leave the noise and dithering tourists as quickly as you came upon them. Peering over the walls you can snatch glimpses of pristine back gardens and even the occasional vine. Follow the sightseeing routes on the tourist map, especially in the north and east of the old town, away from the popular tourist attractions. Here, wander down back streets where the smell of fermenting grapes can be overpowering and get some small idea of how the wine industry actually works, as men in white lab coats hurry off to the nearest patisserie for a mid-morning snack.

Although these areas are well worth your time, don't ignore the centre of town. It's lively, full of bars and restaurants and some of the major attractions, such as the wine museum and Beaune's most famous sight, the Hôtel Dieu. The wine museum is frankly not worth bothering with, but admittance includes admission to two other museums (when you can find them open) on the other side of town. The Hôtel Dieu, on the other hand, is a must-see attraction. This former hospice for the poor dates from 1443 and the spectacular multicoloured tiled roofs were the first example of this architectural feature that was to become a Burgundy trademark. The medical function of the hospice was moved to more modern premises in the early 1970s opening up the building for visitors, but the institution also generates substantial income from its 50+ hectares of vineyards whose produce is sold every November at the world's most famous and illustrious wine auction.

Unlike many French towns, Beaune lacks shady squares in which to relax. There is seating round small green spaces, but they bear closer resemblance to traffic islands than anything else. Beaune is thriving, even if its inhabitants rarely have time to stop and smell the flowers. All this activity gives the impression of a town that feels it's going somewhere. Despite the high levels of tourism you feel (probably wrongly) that the town could do without the tourists, and hence keeps them in one small area so that the residents aren't distracted from their viticultivating.

Wine tasting

• Be honest about your fitness and limitations. This region is hilly and although it is very pleasant to ride along the valley floor, that is probably only a day trip. To go further afield requires going up, and the ups can be quite steep.
• Take food and water with you. The small villages do not necessarily have shops that are open or even a bar, so take plenty of provisions even if it means weighing down your rucksack a bit.
• If you are going to do tours of the vineyards then arrange to pick your goods up later in the car!

I cycled through to Nuits St Georges, home of some rather fine red wines, and up into the hills to the west of Beaune where those elaborately tiled roofs are picked out in the sun, luring you towards them. The whole experience was remarkably pleasant and I would strongly recommend this to anybody with the legs for it. Savigny-les-Beaune is a good place to aim for a short excursion, not least because it is along the valley. This very pretty village has a multi-role chateau which operates as wine-tasting centre, aircraft and car museum, and restaurant.

The other major day-trip destination from Beaune is to Dijon, the region's capital, home of fine mustard and crème de cassis. Dijon is a busy university town, but the centre of town is, like many French cities, a very pleasing mix of modern shops in old buildings. The Musée des Beaux Arts in the Palais des États de Bourgogne is worth a visit and is free for students. I found the walking tour suggested by the tourist office a little long and taking in too many churches. It is also not very easy to follow in the back streets; my suggestion would be to use it merely as a rough guide and explore yourself. For lunch head over to the market area where the brasseries fill up early or of course grab a sandwich in the student area of town.

The scenery around this part of France is very attractive and pottering from place to place is enjoyable. If you like good food and good wine then there can be few more attractive backyards in which to enjoy them.