Most people think of Fiji and imagine a tropical paradise, palm trees, hot sun, and scuba diving. And indeed this can be the case. However, my general mission was essentially to avoid the touristy let's-get-drunk-and-sit-on-the-beach Fiji, which is what it is famous for.

Fiji is a diverse country; not as diverse as the likes of the United States, Australia or Brazil but diverse in a different way. Fiji has historically been a pure Polynesian nation with racial ties to the neighboring islands of Samoa, Tonga, and New Zealand. Hawaiians, French Polynesians (for example Tahitians), and Australian aborigines are of a completely different stock. However, as with any other group, Fijians are as unique as everyone else. Up until the emergence of Captain Cook and the British, Fiji had a very different existence than it does today. They seemed to be constantly at war with their Tonga neighbors as well as having a tradition of cannibalism.

As most people will know, Fiji is part of the British Commonwealth; however unlike its Aussie and Kiwi neighbors, it asked - indeed begged - to be a part of it, rather than being forcefully taken. The British had an active sugar cane trade with the island for many years based in Lautoka, in the north-eastern part of Viti Levu (meaning big, populated island) and minor trading in other areas. As today, Fiji was ruled by a king, with chiefs governing certain provinces and districts. When the chief in Suva, the south-western part of Viti Levu was having trouble paying back some loans to the British companies, he decided to pose as the king of Fiji and offer control of his country to the Empire rather than pay back the money. The British took the islands but by the time everyone figured out what had happened, it was too late to reverse the situation. Fiji was now part of Britain. For this reason the capital is in Suva, despite the majority of people living on the Lautoka side.

The British saw Fiji as a lucrative place for producing sugar cane, but they lacked the manpower to achieve what they wanted. So they went to India, another country under their domain where there was an excess of manpower and brought Indians, essentially as indentured servants, to Fiji (as they did in many other parts of the world such as Guyana and Trinidad and Tobago). The majority of these indentured servants finished their jobs and decided to stay on and live in Fiji, and they are now into their third and fourth generations. Today there is about a 50-50 split between ethnic Fijians and Indians in the Fijian Islands. At times in their history this has been the ember for much hostility, especially since the Indians are the wealthier businessmen and the Fijians are the poorer land owners. That seems to be slowly diminishing today as intermarriage is becoming more and more common.

Walk down the street in any city on Viti Levu and you can hear Hindi music blasting from shop speakers. The vast majority of the restaurants are Indian and there are very few places where one can find typical Fijian food which, by the way, is phenomenal. And of course the Indians speak Hindi or Urdu (depending whether they are Hindu or Muslim) and then Fijians speak, well, Fijian. So how do they communicate? In English of course! It was the British who essentially set up the colonies and even today education is in English. Even the Fiji Times, which due to the world's timezones is the first newspaper to be printed each day (and is owned by none other than Rupert Murdoch) is in English. In other words English is necessary not only to accommodate one of Fiji's leading industries (tourism), but also to allow Fijians to communicate with each other. Moreover, generally a Fijian will not know Hindi, but an Indian will know Fijian.

As soon as I got off the plane I made plans to experience a "real Fijian village". The next morning I took a two hour bumpy ride into the majestic highlands, my view filled with every shade of green imaginable. There I was mixing with the locals catching a ride after a hard day's work in the markets of Nadi. I was going to stay in the village of Bukuya, home to 700 inhabitants, and sort of a regional capital for a seven-village system run by Chief Simi. I was to stay in a simple bure or hut and, as perhaps the only English speaker for miles around, this was all a bit intimidating. Even with my two-word repertoire, my Fijian could do with a boost. I was also a bit nervous to leave my bags, passport and money in the unlocked bure. But I decided to trust them as they trusted me just as much, if not more. I soon learned that my hunches were right.

Getting to grips with kava

They are a very gentle people and most of their lives seem to revolve around the kava or yangonna in the local dialect. Kava is a root found all over the south Pacific and used as a mild intoxicant when pounded and mixed with water. It is everywhere and has a distinct root-like smell. I can still smell it and whenever I think of Fiji I will smell this smell (and hear Doki Doki of course, the music which seems to be playing constantly there). Kava is strong, but if one only consumes two or three bowls then it is really only its taste that is strong, strong to the point of wretchedness mind you. However, throughout my journeys on the islands, I tried different strengths and types and I got into it eventually, and the bad taste went away. Once accustomed to the taste one can drink more, and it is then that hallucinogenic effects can take hold - although I never got that far. It is much like getting drunk without the hangover; it is also allegedly much healthier, as it cleans out the body systems, especially the kidneys. In conclusion, there is nothing wrong with it, and everyone should try it once in a while.

¹ Most Fijian phrasebooks write "Vinaka" rather than "Fvanaka". Adam says: "Around Fiji, I recollect that it was spelled with an 'F'. My feeling is that my spelling is more phonetic and the way the regular Fijian will spell it. The 'V' is more correct when writing in the English language." Back to top