"Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone."
John Steinbeck, Harper's Bazaar 1953

As Steinbeck noted nearly fifty years ago, the journey to Positano is best characterized as hair raising and not for the faint of heart. The drive through Naples, overlooking the Sorrento valley and into the ancient fishing village affords magnificent vistas from high above the sea but involves passing along narrow, twisting roadways carved from the sheer edges of the mountainsides. On Sundays the regazzi (young people) often trace the serpentine route on their Ducatis, racing along as if pursued by the devil himself. More than one visitor has refused to return for fear of this drive. After surviving the journey, one immediately welcomes Positano's unique quietude. During June, July and August, the constricted walkways down to the beach can be clogged with visitors from countless places shopping and enjoying the fine cuisine and weather, but off season, this is a magical place and this is the best time to get to know the Positanese and their form of la dolce vita.

My first visit was quite by accident as have been most of my adventures in Italy. It was in January 2002 that we first discovered Positano, having fled the choking air of Pompei in pursuit of fresh ocean breezes. We happened upon the only year-round hotel and were warmly welcomed by Domenico at the reception desk of Le Sirenuse, a hotel named after the mythical Sirens who inhabited Le Sirenuse Islets, or Li Galli, off the coast of Positano. The women of these parts were not always so welcoming: legend has it that the Sirens tempted sailors with their seductive songs, beckoning them to crash onto the rocks and lose their lives. Because our visit was so unplanned, the enchanting melody of this special place took us by surprise and soon thereafter I felt compelled to at least try to unveil the history hidden behind its seemingly inexplicable allure.

Hotel Le Sirenuse is truly world class, wholly deserving of its five star rating, but it is also a small family owned business that provides a level of personal service and atmosphere to which most places can only aspire. The building was constructed centuries ago as a summer retreat for the Sersale Family, Nobilta Napolitana (the aristocracy of Naples), and ancient art, artifacts and furniture are scattered about its posh tiled and whitewashed labyrinth of ocean view rooms and suites. Since its conversion in 1951 from private seasonal residence to hotel, the Sersale Family has continued to own and operate Le Sirenuse, carefully expanding it over the years from the five original guest rooms to the 60 it has today.

The expansion was largely overseen by Franco Sersale, the brother of twice Mayor of Positano, Paolo Sersale, both Italian noblemen. The Sersales remain in residence together with a new generation of passionate and kind family members who begin their charge of this distinctive property. Anna, the last of Paolo and Franco's generation, is still prominent despite her 89 years, and is a delightful hostess who can usually be found in the evenings in one of the bright ocean view common rooms quietly watching television or chatting with her guests. Having spent most of her life working at the hotel, she is filled with Positano facts and knowledge and the willingness to share her stories, lightly gesturing while vividly recalling poignant memories of bygone days. Anna recalls when John Steinbeck, his wife and their dog, Jackie, first came to Le Sirenuse and his returning for many stays in what he referred to as his "dream place". "He was a very nice man," Anna candidly mentions, "rather brusque but terribly funny." Continuing the family tradition, her nephew, Antonio, and her two nieces, Giulia and Marina, now attend to a great variety of hotel operations.

Giulia is fast becoming an informal hostess but her primary work involves caring for the lavish greenery which fills this stately hotel and creates the illusion of open air living. In almost every guest room, throughout the common areas, restaurant and bar are blooming orchids and myriad other tropical plants perched beneath arbors of bougainvillea which climb the arched, white ceilings. During one of our recent chats it was Giulia who with characteristic insight first opined that the prominent role women play here has itself created the nurturing atmosphere to which people long to return, that to which she herself returned long after her formal education was complete.

Along the twisting descent through the slender streets of Positano you are greeted by the grocer and numerous boutiques carrying the local moda which consists of fine cottons, soft linens, chic handmade sandals and daring swimwear. The roads are merely wide sidewalks, none of which even remotely approach the beach, rendering the village below exceptionally peaceful. The beach lies at the foot of the hillsides on which Positano rests. In order to reach it one must traverse one of two pedestrian passages, fraught with stairs and ramps, but ablaze with bougainvillea and surrounded by all variety of small galleries, shops and cafes, including a great little internet cafe.

When you have passed the Duomo and descended the last steeply stepped walkway you will find La Cambusa Ristorante at the landing, my favorite in Positano. La Cambusa has been owned by Luigi and Baldo for almost 40 years. On most days Luigi can be seen holding court at La Cambusa. He tells me that it is these daily sessions that bring him the most joy and keep him from retirement, brightly chattering at his table of strategic vantage.

There are no waitresses anywhere in all of Italy and Mario, Antonio, and Luciano sweep through the restaurant assuring that they control the serving of food, as each has for almost 20 years. However, this being Positano, it is the women who welcome you to this fine dining experience and it is they who bid you farewell on your departure. In the afternoons, Gabriella stands in the doorway, eyes sparkling as she watches the tourists wind their way to La Cambusa, down that last narrow stair. Greeting each with a "buon giorno" or a "buona sera", she beckons them to explore La Cambusa's fresh seafood such as baby squid and anchovies, prawns with linguini or insalata di polipo, the excellent cold octopus salad. The vast variety of fish available is proudly displayed on ice directly inside the entrance. Ask Mario for some of his homemade mozzarella, it's tastier than bufala. At times, Roberta collects money while standing guard over the cash register, or is it her sister, Marina? Both are always a welcome sight and personify the warmth I have grown to love in Positano. Roberta, giggling, reveals that Luigi was once regarded as somewhat of a casanova in Positano; he laughs heartily at the suggestion.

Positano boasts a strong female heritage that is largely a history of clever, gracious women who have taken charge of their own destiny through hard work, determination and survival instincts. Over hundreds of years many have prevented inherited property from leaving their ownership despite economic hardship and heightened demand. Yet, Positanese women, although savvy in business, somehow retain the spirited humor and passion for life that not only characterize this town but define it. People may leave Positano, but it seems that someday they always return.

In fact, I have discovered that women keep saving Positano. Having once lived in male-dominated Calabria, I was very surprised to learn of the integral role women play here and the respected position they hold in business. Historically a fishing village, one would assume Positano to be dominated by men, but that is far from the case. Perhaps women first ascended to their unusual position after Saracen pirates stole a painting of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. Once at sea the energy of the sirens and of the Virgin combined so enraged the Mediterranean as to threaten the ship with foundering. Mary appeared to the pirates, directing them to return the stolen painting to Positano, and they were so amazed that they immediately returned to shore and replaced the painting in its rightful home in the Duomo. The sea calmed instantly, the Saracens converted to Christianity and began praying to Mary. Thus - according to legend - was born the maternal spirit of Positano. There may also be another, less miraculous reason.

While strolling down the stradini I pay close attention to the mostly female shop owners, such as Maria, ruling over their roost. Maria runs a massive ceramic negozia; although her husband Luca is occasionally present, he is clearly not in charge. Maria has the engaging personality, vivacious welcome and product pride that befit her position, and she represents but one of many lively characters in Positano who will laugh with you in delight when you fumble with your Italian. Cigarette constantly in mouth, she invites you not only to choose from her vast array of brilliant vases and platters of every hue, but to savor the aroma of her Sunday cooking and to listen a while to the history of her 42 years of welcoming visitors from all over the world.

Flavia, a widow who raised three children alone, owns and manages 'Luisa & Flavia Coiffeur'. She carries it all off with hysterical humor and talent and is always willing to rescue impromptu visitors from bad hair days. They represent a long line of Positanese women who were bequeathed property and who - though clever enough to capitalize on their inheritance and good fortune - still retain the embracing personality and passion so characteristic of the town.

In the late 1800s almost two thirds of the Positanese emigrated to America with dreams of the New World and economic security, some leaving behind wives and children amidst dozens of crumbling, deserted houses that dotted the cliff faces. Various homes were eventually purchased by outsiders who renovated and repaired them but within a few generations most returned to Positanese ownership thanks to their newly found wealth from the burgeoning tourist industry of the mid 1900s. Tourism had unexpectedly crept out of World War II after locals began renting rooms to soldiers and their wives who stumbled upon Positano. It was in this setting that women emerged as capable breadwinners.

The unlikely rise of the donne di Positano is in part due to ancient customs of inheritance under which daughters were commonly bequeathed the relatively worthless seaside property while their brothers were left more valuable farm land in the mountains or commercial property in the city. As a result of hundreds of years of this process of abandonment, refurbishment, and filial inheritance, many Positanese say that women now own most of the property.

The sense of tranquility is second only to the level of comfort experienced while in Positano. The desire to return leaves me longing for the quick smiles and heartfelt welcomes of the Positanese who relish with furtive, knowing smiles those of us deeply bitten, those left feeling tenderly embraced by the pearls secreted behind the rugged Amalfi Coast.

Feedback:
"This was an excellent article on Positano. It read more like a romantic novel that just your typical travel story . I certainly will look forward to adding this magical place on my 'Must See' list of Italian cities." Evelyn Haarman

"Thank you for the inspiring and insightful article on Positano. I have traveled extensively in Italy at various times and seasons, but have always missed this particular gem. I think Ms. Perry has captured the essence of the area and I look forward to reading more of her investigations of places to come." Carlotta Soppranno

"You captured the essence of Positano brilliantly!" Rhonda Montera