St. Petersburg was founded on May 16, 1703. So during my visit in summer 2002, I saw less of the city's external face than before. It seemed that everything was at least partially clad in scaffolding, being renovated for the massive crowds expected during the year-long anniversary festivities.

Although the outer faces were masked, I saw more of the interiors than I had previously. As in Moscow, I found that some places I had longed to visit in the past but could not were now open to the public.

We began our time in St. Petersburg on the main street of the city, Nevsky Prospect, named after Alexander Nevsky, who died in 1240 while leading the troops of Novgorod to defeat the Swedish enemy. Now, Nevsky leads thousands of people every day from one end of downtown St. Petersburg to the other, with memorable stops along the way.

Nevsky is a busy street with six lanes of traffic and equally large sidewalks to carry pedestrians. The street is lined with beautiful buildings, from historic cathedrals to modern shops selling clothing, books, souvenirs and food. And every block offers passage down side streets to even more sights and destinations. One could spend an active week without ever leaving Nevsky Prospect and its immediate sidestreets.

Following Nevsky

The Russian liturgy was in progress - it would be for most of the day - and we entered to enjoy the beauty of the holy place along with the sweet incense. I've been in many Russian Orthodox churches, but this was the first time I entered to find a dead body in a casket. Around the casket were the family and friends. They had brought their loved one to be blessed before burial.

Outside the church, we paid admission to enter the two graveyards. These include the graves of actors, musicians, artists and figures of historical significance, including Tchikovsky, Stravinsky and the wife of Pushkin.

The Kazan Cathedral is another of the marvels along Nevsky Prospect. The heavy crescent of stone and pillars includes carvings and statues along the long exterior. Its arc faces Nevsky and includes 96 Corinthian columns. I could look at its architectural beauty for hours. And an outdoor café-bar at the front of the cathedral allows a comfortable opportunity for just that. We sat and enjoyed a beer as we took in the wonderful view, fighting off the feeling of disrespect as we drank at plastic tables.

Since drinks are cheaper at a store, we walked a bit more and came to Eliseevsky, the oldest and most famous grocery store in St. Petersburg - a majestic building decorated in green and gold. It continues to sell fresh produce and packaged goods as well as souvenirs, wine, liquor, tobacco and delicious pastries.

All the food reminded us that we could use a hot bite to eat, so we decided to try one of the sidestreet cafes. Jhile Bilie (To Live, To Be) drew us in with its interesting decor, the walls painted to give the appearance of ancient dessert ruins freshly discovered under the sand. I politely brought to the attention of the waitress that our chicken was not cooked properly, red and ice-cold in the center. She tried to convince us that it was bacon in the center, and that it was supposed to be cold.

Customer service is an area still unmastered by a number of Russian establishments, and it was only after considerable argument - a scene drawing the attention of the entire café - that the manager agreed to refund half of the cost of the chicken. We left hungry and angry. In Russia, the customer is not always right.

Hungry, we decided to go to one of the many 'Teremok' kiosks selling blinys, thin crêpe-like pancakes, stuffed with just about anything one could want - meat, fruit, cream, syrup, potatoes, even mushrooms. I got one filled with a hot walnut-poppy seed combination, and another stuffed with chocolate and bananas. We washed them down with Medovuha, a honey-based drink. It was much better than the Jhile Bhilie. Like anywhere else, the appearance of an eatery can be deceiving, and often the best places to eat have the least impressive presentations.

A Religious Experience

Its official name is the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, but the more popular name offers double meaning. The church was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was assassinated by a revolutionary on March 1, 1881. Construction of the Savior on the Blood began in 1883 as a memorial to the fallen tsar.

I've visited the church many times during my visits to St. Petersburg. While St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow is the most recognized church in the nation, this one is, in my opinion, more impressive, despite being newer. It is eye candy, with technicolor onion domes each of a unique design, a beautiful brick exterior decorated all around with intricate mosaics of the Stations of the Cross, and countless crests. To see such mosaic mastery on the exterior of a church is impressive.

But for all my visits, I had never been allowed inside; it had always been closed to the public. It wasn't until this trip that I came to know that the intricate exterior is only a taste of the mosaic paradise waiting within.

Inside, I stood in awe. We spent a couple hours marveling at the mastery. Almost the entire interior was mosaic - pictures of Christ, the disciples and the saints as detailed as any icons or paintings - all put together with small metallic pieces. Even the arches inside the window panes were mosaic, and the floor was a design of mosaic stone.

I took pictures and I bought picture books. But they do not reveal the true nature of the interior. If I could only tour one Russian church, this would certainly be the one.