This trail provides some of the best safe storm watching in the area. The beaches and rocks are far too dangerous to venture onto in such conditions, but the cliff here is high enough to keep you away from the waves, yet low enough to put you near the action. Even on this relatively mild day, the waves were pounding over the rocks as the tide came in. The lighthouse - part of a permanently manned coastguard station - flashed through the murky grey although there were no signs of any ships out on the ocean.

There are plenty of vantage points, and we were joined at one by two of the coastguards who were seal spotting. None to be seen today. The trail starts off as a wide pathway before the inevitable boardwalk section. The Ucluelet residents are proud of this new tourist attraction, and well they might be. It is accessible, well maintained, and opens up new dramatic views of the coastline. The trail becomes part of the He-Tin-Kis park and you can walk down to a sandy cove from here well protected from the ocean waves. A heron perched on a rock, suitably out of range for our inadequate cameras. The rain continued to fall and we climbed back up from the beach and headed back to the car, our minds already thinking about the long drive back to the east coast of the island.

We drove slowly back through Ucluelet, past the cannery-inspired Roots Lodge, a wooden eyesore at the southern end of town, past the school, the smattering of shops and then - for good measure - down to the wharf area. Driving round here was a piece of cake. Dennis had told us that for years residents could not get a full licence here because there were no traffic lights. The only thing that came close was the 4-way stop light in Tofino.

Funds were low and the bank was calling. Being an idiot, I managed to enter my PIN wrongly three times and had to go into the bank - a CIBC of course - to get the money. The bank seemed out of keeping with the rest of the town - it could have been a CIBC branch anywhere. There was no west-coast customizaton in evidence, beyond the notices for local events. It was an oasis of corporate Canada in a sea of Canadian wilderness. The rain was coming on harder now, and we decided that this was the time to leave.

I may never go back to Ucluelet. I would like to think that I will, but it is so far and there are so many other places to see. I suspect that my love of western Canada will draw me back here eventually. And I don't expect much to have changed. It will probably be raining, the people will be friendly, the scenery will still be spectacular and hopefully the mountains still tree-clad. Tofino may get the publicity, and the surfers, but Ucluelet - the "safe harbour" - has the air of not needing all those appendages. It badly needs to diversify its economy, and could certainly grow beyond its current size. But it is hard to see how it will ever lose its essence. We had only been on the Edge for a few days and could not imagine living here permanently, but it was good to know that it was there - an area of outstanding natural beauty.

Feedback:
"I really enjoyed reading Jonathan's account of his trip to Uculuelet. I'm planning a trip to the area next weekend and this was very helpful to me. It was also nice to be transported out of my dreary office for a few minutes reading about his travels there!" Martin Anstey

"I do not know when the article was written, but it must have been a bit ago [Ed: The trip took place in Sep '01]. The community is still small and wonderful, but there are signs of motels and condos everywhere. It will not be long before it will be Tofino and then some. Of course the beaches and trails were wonderful and beautiful in such a simple way. I am glad I saw it now and actually hope I never try to return, if it means it will be any more developed than it is now. I need to get to Alaska, Nova Scotia, The Yukon, and the Northwest Territories before it is too late." Jerry & Kathy Rogers